Asparagus: the Dutch way
Traditionally asparagus season starts on the second Thursday of April and continues until the twenty fourth of June. During this time the Dutch community indulges themselves into simple asparagus recipes at home and experience the more classic ones from restaurants, taking advantage of the seasonal delicacy for this short period of white asparagus. In this current times we can of course try the classic restaurant recipes at home and enjoy some great wines with it.
As an African sommelier with a developed gastronomic palate for food and wine from highly ranked restaurants, I would not want to miss out on the exquisite taste of asparagus. Our trade, importing gastronomic South African wines for retail, restaurants and consumers, calls for an extensive knowledge of wine pairing with this “White Gold”, as the Dutch call it. I used to enjoy my “normal” delicacy in Africa, which would be the green asparagus. It is planted throughout the Western Cape and widely accessible in the gastronomic sector in South Africa as a seasonal delicacy.
Being a seasoned sommelier, these are exiting times to introduce new wines to the degustation menu that really fit in with the particular tastes of green and white asparagus dishes from the chefs menu and also to try replicate these fine recipes at home.
The taste of green asparagus:
Because of its pungency it has notes of freshly cut grass, broccoli, green beans and when it’s fresh it has a mild flavor and earthy undertones. This is what makes it a perfect delicacy for wine pairings in the restaurants and at home too.
My favorite green asparagus dish is: Cape Malay fish with green asparagus and lemon verbena sauce.
The taste of Dutch asparagus:
In South Africa this was always a genuine rare delicacy, as we would get white asparagus in the same short period of time as in Europe. This made it a real outstanding dish for Top Chefs menus in the Cape and beyond. Compared to green asparagus the white ones have more texture on the palate. They are full bodied but elegant and juicy. It is always a pleasure to play around with these (for Africans) exotic flavors and pairing them with local South African Wines.
My favorite white asparagus dish is: Dutch white asparagus with soft boiled egg, ham and Hollandaise sauce.
The secret recipe for Hollandaise sauce
Heat up some butter (needs to be hot) and stream into the blender with egg yolk mixture to create a smooth sauce.
- Melt the butter in a microwave - for about1 minute until hot
- Combine egg yolk, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, salt and cayenne pepper into a high powered blender (home one also works just fine) - and blend for 5 minutes
- Slowly stream in the hot butter into the mixture as the blender is running
- Pour the sauce into a small bowl and drizzle over your meal cooked asparagus, ham and boiled egg.
Wine pairing
Both the dish with green and white asparagus would be perfect with Cape Mediterranean white blends, Bordeaux style white blends, Chenin Blanc based blends and elegant Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. So that is a lot to choose from.
My personal wine pairing recommendations from African Wines:
Fryer`s Cove Vineyards Bamboes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2016, from the West Coast
A full structured oak and clay pot fermented Sauvignon Blanc, aged for 18 months. Profound minerality with lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. The intense palate is rich, creamy, chalky, packed wIth an unIque “kelp” personality that this winery gets from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Remarkable acidity to cut through the richness of the Hollandaise sauce and still complements the juicy elegant asparagus.
Black Elephant Vintners Two Dogs, a Peacock & a Horse Sauvignon Blanc 2018
The wine is translucent with a bright green hue. The nose is opulent with aromas of melon, granadilla, pear, citrus and litchi. The palate is lively and concentrated with flavors of tropical fruits, gooseberry, creamy richness from the extended lees contact and lingering with fresh acidity to balance the texture of the asparagus.
Piekenierskloof Wines Chenin Blanc 2017
Planted in 1987 this wine shows upfront pears drops, pawpaw with juicy tropical summer melon on the palate. Nice mouth filling with hints of mango on a great fresh and crisp finish. These tropical fruits will compliment the flavors of the creamy butter and still holds pure acidity to cut through the dish.
Quoin Rock Wines Namysto White Blend 2018
Aromas of pineapple and mango and a taste delivery of apricot pips and the silkiness of organic honey, complements well the Hollandaise sauce and the acidity from the Sauvignon Blanc cuts through the richness of the dish.
Quoin Rock Estate Chardonnay 2018
Aromas of citrus and orange peel leading to hints of vanilla spice oak and toasted brioche. Citrus peel on palate with lightly buttery texture. The wine is well balanced with fresh acidity and minerality. Persistent lemon/lime on the finish. This is the perfect classical glass of Chardonnay that complements asparagus, ham and Hollandaise sauce.
Enjoy this lovely season of asparagus with great South African Wines at home!